Engine - On-Vehicle Inspection

1. Inspect engine coolant

2. Inspect engine oil

3. Inspect battery

4. Inspect air cleaner filter element sub-assembly

5. Inspect spark plug

6. Inspect ignition timing

7. Inspect engine idling speed

8. Inspect compression

9. Inspect co/hc

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1. The engine coolant should be between the LOW and FULL lines when the engine is cold.

   HINT:

   If it is below the LOW line, check for leakage and add Toyota Super Long Life Coolant or similar high quality ethylene glycol based non-silicate, non-amine, non-nitrite, and non-borate coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology up to the FULL line.

1. Warm up the engine, then stop the engine and wait for 5 minutes. Check that the engine oil level is between the low and full marks on the oil level gauge.
   If the engine oil level is low, check for oil leakage and add engine oil up to the full level mark.

   NOTICE:

   Do not add engine oil to above the full level mark.

1. Check the battery for damage and deformation. If severe damage, deformation or leakage is found, replace the battery.

2. Check the volume of electrolyte in each cell.
   

   1. For batteries that are maintenance-free:

      1. If the electrolyte volume is below the lower line, replace the battery.
         
      2. If the electrolyte volume is above the lower line, check the battery voltage when cranking the engine.
         
      3. If the voltage is less than 9.6 V, recharge or replace the battery.
         

      HINT:

      Before checking the battery voltage, turn off all the electrical systems (headlights, blower motor, etc.).

   2. For batteries that are not maintenance-free:

      1. If the electrolyte volume is below the lower line, add distilled water to each cell. Then, recharge the battery and check the electrolyte specific gravity.
         

      Standard specific gravity:

      1.25 to 1.29 at 20 °C ( 68°F)
      

      If the electrolyte volume is above the lower line, check the battery voltage when cranking the engine. If the voltage is less than 9.6 V, recharge or replace the battery.
      

      HINT:

      Before checking the battery voltage, turn off all the electrical systems (headlights, blower motor, rear defogger, etc.).

1. Remove the air cleaner filter element sub-assembly.

2. Visually check that there is no dirt, blockage, or damage to the air cleaner filter element.

   HINT:

   1. If there is any dirt or a blockage in the air cleaner filter element, clean it with compressed air.
      
   2. If any dirt or a blockage remains even after cleaning the air cleaner filter element with compressed air, replace it.
      

NOTICE:

Do not use a wire brush for cleaning.

1. Check the electrode.
   

   1. Using a megaohmmeter, measure the insulation resistance.

      Standard resistance:

      10 MΩ or more
      

      HINT:

      1. If the result is not as specified, clean the spark plug with a spark plug cleaner and measure the resistance again.
         
      1. If a megaohmmeter is not available, perform the following simple inspection instead.
         

2. Alternative inspection method.
   

   1. Quickly accelerate the engine to 4,000 rpm 5 times.

   2. Remove the spark plug.

   4. Visually check the spark plug.
      If the electrode is dry, the spark plug is functioning properly. If the electrode is damp, proceed to the next step.

3. Check the spark plug for any damage on its thread and insulator.
   If there is damage, replace the spark plug.

   Recommended spark plug:

   Manufacturer	Product
   DENSO	K16R-U
   NGK	BKR5EYA

4. Check the spark plug electrode gap.

   Maximum electrode gap for used spark plug:

   1.1 mm (0.043 in.)
   

   If the gap is greater than the maximum, replace the spark plug.
   

   Electrode gap for new spark plug:

   0.7 to 0.8 mm (0.028 to 0.031 in.)
   

5. Clean the spark plugs.
   If the electrode has traces of wet carbon, clean the electrode with a spark plug cleaner and then dry it.

   Air pressure:

   588 kPa (6 kgf/cm², 85 psi)
   

   Duration:

   20 seconds or less
   

   HINT:

   Only use the spark plug cleaner when the electrode is free of oil. If the electrode has traces of oil, use gasoline to clean off the oil before using the spark plug cleaner.

1. When using an intelligent tester:
   

   1. Warm up and stop the engine.

   3. Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3.

   4. Turn the ignition switch on (IG).

   5. Select the following menu items:
      Powertrain / Engine and ECT / Active Test / TC (TE1) / ON.

      HINT:

      Refer to the intelligent tester operator's manual for further details.

   6. Inspect the ignition timing during idling.

      Ignition timing:

      8 to 12 degrees BTDC
      

      NOTICE:

      1. Turn all the electrical systems and the A/C off.
         
      2. Inspect the ignition timing with the cooling fan off.
         
      3. When checking the ignition timing, shift the transmission to the neutral position.
         

   7. Select the following menu items: TC (TE1) / OFF

   8. Turn the ignition switch off.

   9. Disconnect the intelligent tester from the DLC3.

2. When not using an intelligent tester:
   

   1. Remove cylinder head cover No. 2 (Click here).

   3. Pull out the wire harness (brown) shown in the illustration.

      NOTICE:

      After checking, wrap the wire harness with tape.

   4. Warm up and stop the engine.

   5. Connect the clip of the timing light to the wire harness.

      NOTICE:

      Use a timing light that detects the first signal.

   6. Turn the ignition switch on (IG).

   8. Using SST, connect terminals 13 (TC) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3.

      SST

      09843-18040
      

      NOTICE:

      Examine the terminal numbers before connecting them. Connecting the wrong terminals can damage the engine.

   9. Inspect the ignition timing during idling.

      Ignition timing:

      8 to 12 degrees BTDC
      

      NOTICE:

      1. Turn all the electrical systems and the A/C off.
         
      2. Inspect the ignition timing with the cooling fan off.
         
      3. When checking the ignition timing, shift the transmission to the neutral position.
         

   10. Disconnect terminals 13 (TC) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3.

   11. Turn the ignition switch off.

   12. Remove the timing light.

   13. Install cylinder head cover No. 2 (Click here).

1. When using an intelligent tester:
   

   1. Warm up and stop the engine.

   3. Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3.

   4. Turn the ignition switch on (IG).

   5. Select the following menu items: Powertrain / Engine and ECT /Data List / Engine Speed.

      HINT:

      Refer to the intelligent tester operator's manual for further details.

   6. Inspect the engine idling speed.

      Idling speed:

      600 to 700rpm for manual transaxle
      

      650 to 750rpm for automatic transaxle
      

      NOTICE:

      1. Turn all the electrical systems and the A/C off.
         
      2. Inspect the idling speed with the cooling fan off.
         
      3. When checking the idling speed, shift the transmission to either the neutral position or the parking position.
         

   7. Turn the ignition switch off.

   8. Disconnect the intelligent tester from the DLC3.

2. When not using an intelligent tester.
   

   1. Warm up and stop the engine.

   3. Install SST to terminal 9 (TAC) of the DLC3, then connect a tachometer.

      SST

      09843-18040
      

      NOTICE:

      Examine the terminal numbers before connecting them. Connecting the wrong terminals can damage the engine.

   4. Turn the ignition switch on (IG).

   5. Inspect the engine idling speed.

      Idling speed:

      600 to 700rpm for manual transaxle
      

      650 to 750rpm for automatic transaxle
      

   6. Turn the ignition switch off.

   7. Disconnect the tachometer.

   8. Remove SST from terminal 9 (TAC).

1. Warm up and stop the engine.

2. Remove cylinder head cover No. 2 (Click here).

3. Remove the 4 ignition coils (Click here).

4. Remove the 4 spark plugs.

5. Disconnect the 4 fuel injector connectors.

6. Inspect the cylinder compression pressure.
   

   1. Insert a compression gauge into the spark plug hole.

   2. Fully open the throttle.

   3. While cranking the engine, measure the compression pressure.

      Compression:

      1,471kPa (15.0 kgf/cm², 213 psi)
      

      Minimum pressure:

      1,079 kPa (11.0 kgf/cm², 156 psi)
      

      Difference between each cylinder:

      98 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm², 14 psi) or less
      

      NOTICE:

      1. Use a fully-charged battery so the engine speed can be increased to 250 rpm or more.
         
      2. Inspect the other cylinders in the same way.
         
      3. Measure the compression in as short a time as possible.
         

   4. If the cylinder compression is low, pour a light coat of engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, then inspect it again.

      HINT:

      1. If adding oil increases the compression, the piston rings and/or cylinder bore may be worn or damaged.
         
      2. If the pressure stays low, the valve may be stuck or seated improperly, or there may be leakage from the gasket.
         

7. Connect the 4 fuel injector connectors.

8. Install the 4 spark plugs.

   Torque:

   18 N*m{184 kgf*cm, 13 ft.*lbf}

9. Install the 4 ignition coils (Click here).

10. Install cylinder head cover No. 2 (Click here).

1. Start the engine.

2. Run the engine at 2,500 rpm for approximately 180 seconds.

3. Insert the CO/HC meter testing probe at least 40 cm (1.3 ft) into the tailpipe while idling.

4. Check the CO/HC concentration during idling and when running at 2,500 rpm.

   HINT:

   When doing the 2 mode (with the engine idling/running at 2,500 rpm) test, the measuring procedures are determined by applicable local regulations.

   If the CO/HC concentration does not comply with the regulations, troubleshoot in the order given below.
   

   1. Check the heated oxygen sensor operation (Click here).

   2. See the table below for possible causes, then inspect the applicable parts and repair them if necessary.
      

      CO	HC	Problems	Possible Causes
      Normal	High	Rough idling	Faulty ignition: Incorrect timing Fouled, shorted or improperly gapped plugs Incorrect valve clearance Leakage from intake and exhaust valves Leakage from cylinders
      Low	High	Rough idling (Fluctuating HC reading)	Vacuum leaks: PCV hoses Intake manifold Throttle body Brake booster line Lean mixture causing misfire
      High	High	Rough idling (Black smoke from exhaust)	Restricted air cleaner filter element Plugged PCV valve Faulty EFI systems: Faulty pressure regulator Faulty engine coolant temperature sensor Faulty mass air flow meter Faulty ECM Faulty injectors Throttle body